Chapter Eight: Amritsar

Amritsar is the home of the Beautiful and Beloved Sikh temple called the Golden Temple.  And it is just that, a Golden temple floating in the middle of a giant body of water called the Pool of Nectar, surrounded by four large marble walls and four marble gates.  It is not a huge tourist attraction for non-Indians, or non-Sikhs.  We were the only white people there, out of hundreds of followers.  We have been to many temples in India, of all religions, but this one was the most peaceful and the most active.  People were not there to take pictures and stare, they were there to worship and spend time in their beloved temple.  They felt honored that we took an interest in their temple and were happy to see us there. It was also the only temple so far that was entirely free.  We had to take off our shoes (like at most temples in India) and cover our heads.  The current Guru was in the center of the temple surrounded by Sikh men playing golden harmoniums and chanting.  It was so wonderful.

While in Amritsar we took an hour long rickshaw ride out to the the boarder ceremony at dusk.  Amritsar is right on the Boarder to Pakistan and every evening they have a boarder ceremony with Pakistan.  There is a huge gate dividing the two countries and on one side is a little stadium filled with Pakistanis and guarded by the Pakistani army, and on the other side is the same scene, but with Indians.  They cheer and chant and get all full of National Pride.  The guards do a ceremonial performance and it ends with both sides lowering their flags in unison while both sides cheer.  It was so great to see such national pride, and quite amazing to be one toe away from Pakistan!   It was probably the most peaceful place on the entire Indian/Pakistani boarder.
From Amritsar we hoped a local bus to the mountain city of Dharamsala, home of the Dalai Lama...

The Golden Temple.

A Sikh boy tending his father's frame shop.

I have never eaten coconut like this before, it was so delicious.

A beautiful group of Sikh men playing traditional music and singing at the Golden Temple.

Sikh men cover their heads and grow our their beards.  They are so beautiful.

Male Pilgrims were allowed to bath and worship in the Pool of Nectar.

Sikh boy who kept standing in my shots, so I finally just took his picture.

Sikhs just hanging out and meditating and worshiping around the temple.

Golden fish in the Pool of Nectar.

The golden temple surrounded by the Pool of Nectar.

Offerings at the Golden Temple.  The brown slug underneath was like their sacrament.

The gate of the Golden Temple

There were golden fish swimming in circles around the Golden temple in the pool of Nectar.  Amazing!

A Sikh man at the Golden Temple

A one hour drive in this auto rickshaw was quite the experience.

Just another beautiful Sikh man

Indians shouting in National pride

Indians watching the boarder ceremony

On the bus to Dharamsala.

Six long and crowded hours on a old, hot bus to Dharamsala.